Easter Island: The North Coast

Easter-Island-The-North-Coast-8We finished filming the first part of Eating up Easter with our cinematographer this week! Although it was a huge challenge to work in an environment where everything happens day by day and minute by minute (i.e. appointments cannot be made with anyone, or certainly will never be kept if they are), we were able to film a ton of great content and capture lots of beautiful b-roll. What an awesome team we have! We’ll share more on that later, but for now we want to show you this beautiful hike we took just before filming began. I can’t believe I got this many photos to load here.

So, here we go…..beware, this might get a little archaeology-sciencey/tour-guidey, but I just can’t help myself. I want to teach you all about this fantastic little place.

Last week we hiked the north coast of Easter Island. While there are roads around the south coast and through the middle of the island, the north coast consists of steep slopes ending in rocky cliffs and is only accessible by foot or on horseback. The coast forms the northern base of the island’s largest and youngest volcano, Terevaka. We got a ride to the end of the road, just a few miles north of town to begin our hike, which ended at Anakena, the only sandy beach, where the road picks up again and heads back to town. With the rocky terrain, a nice stop for lunch and our zigzagging up and down the hillsides looking for interesting remnants of past life, it took us almost 7 hours. A good, full, beautiful, and refreshingly exhausting day.

**Please Note: If you are a tourist considering doing this hike, make sure to hire a guide or go with a local person on the island. There have been cases recently in which tourists have become lost on the hike and had to be rescued during the night.

Easter-Island-The-North-Coast-3Easter-Island-The-North-Coast-2 Continue Reading →

Kon Tiki

Are you looking for a movie recommendation for the weekend? Have you seen Kon Tiki yet? It’s a fictional retelling of the Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl’s real life adventure into the Pacific on a Peruvian raft. The cinematography is gorgeous and the story really brings alive the adventurous spirit of Heyerdahl and the men that he convinced to follow him on his crazy journey. Together, they built a replica of an ancient coastal raft used by native peoples from Peru and attempted to sail across the Pacific toward central Polynesia to prove the Pacific Islands could have been settled from South America. He wrote the book, Kon Tiki to document their voyage, which took place just after the end of WWII in 1947.

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photo from the new movie Kon Tiki, a re-creation of a Peruvian coastal raft

Most Pacific scholars today scoff at the mere mention of Heyerdahl’s name – how could he disgrace the ingenuity and highly skilled navigational capability of the Polynesians by suggesting South Americans, using coastal sailing rafts and with no knowledge of voyaging across open oceans, were the ones to sail 2, 3, 4000 miles to settle Polynesia? We know today that there absolutely was contact between South America and Polynesia….it just wasn’t in the direction Heyerdahl thought. The Polynesians were highly trained navigators after all, so why would they discover nearly every spec of land or rock throughout the Pacific but miss the continent at the other end? And, although much of the “evidence” Heyerdahl cited as proof of a connection between the two peoples has been proven inaccurate, there is, in fact, evidence piling higher every day that the Polynesians made it to South America, introduced the Polynesian chicken, likely settled some of the islands along Chile’s coast, and brought back the sweet potato along with it’s Andean name, Kumara, and spread it throughout the Pacific.

re-creation of a traditional Polynesian double-hulled voyaging canoe

So, even though Heyerdahl has been proven wildly inaccurate in his theory that South Americans settled Polynesia, his story of adventure still stirs up my love of uncovering the past. And this movie depicts that spirit of exploration in the most simple yet beautiful manner, while bringing to life some of the fanciful aspects of the story such as encounters with mysterious undocumented sea creatures and giants of the deep ocean. It’s available now for rent or purchase on iTunes, Amazon or Netflix, and probably in your local movie rental store (if you still have a local store), so check it out. I highly recommend it. It’s a fantastic journey of a movie.

And just as an aside… I can’t ever think of Heyerdahl these days without acknowledging to myself that despite his less than stellar reputation in academic circles, my life today would not be what it is without him. When I was in junior high, my English teacher gave me a copy of the book Kon Tiki as a prize for getting good grades on my papers that month.

I quickly devoured the adventurous story (which, now knowing more about Thor Heyerdahl, was a rather gloriously embellished re-telling of his journey. His books, although sold as non-fictional accounts of his exploits and adventures, are known for their fanciful accounts, not all of which are based in reality). I was hooked and immediately began searching for more wonderful tales of adventure mixed with archaeology and interpretations of the past. I had wanted to be an archaeologist since age 7 when I took an egyptology class at my magnet school and fell in love with the story of Howard Carter’s discovery of King Tut’s tomb. It wasn’t until college, like most kids who are star struck by the Indiana Jone’s style treasure hunting stories, that my understanding of archaeology was crushed and re-molded into the less than fantastic reality it actually is….staring at tiny nicks on rocks for hours on end trying to see the difference between two types of flakes discarded during tool making….or digging holes in the ground for days only to discover dirt, dirt, and more dirt, and maybe the occasional rat bone (although I do still love digging in the dirt). But, back then, after reading Kon Tiki, I found another of Heyerdahl’s books, Aku Aku, about his expedition to Easter Island in 1955.aku-aku5-webThis book, like his others, is not exactly historically accurate, but it solidified my fascination with that little island and eventually led me to choose to go there for my first archaeological field school the summer after my freshman year of college. Little did I know that teacher who gave me Kon Tiki back in 7th grade was actually leading me to meet my husband, Ta’u…..isn’t life incredible in retrospect? Not only did I meet Ta’u there, but my father-in-law is a native Easter Islander and the first to be trained as an archaeologist by one of the scholars that Heyerdahl brought with him on his 1955 expedition. Small world, right? Ta’u has childhood memories of Heyerdahl staying with them in his father’s hotel. The one thing he remembers most about Heyerdahl is the baby blue safari suit he always wore. You can still find photos of him from his various visits to the island wearing that exact outfit.

ThorHeyerdahl copy

Pretty Pictures of Rapa Nui

Unfinished statues at Rano Raraku. Most people don't realize that these statues are half buried in the soil.

Unfinished statues at Rano Raraku. Most people don’t realize that these statues are half buried in the soil.

The statue in the foreground traveled to Japan as part of the Osaka Trade Fair in 1990. You can see Rano Raraku, the statue quarry, in the background.

The statue in the foreground traveled to Japan as part of the Osaka Trade Fair in 1990. You can see Rano Raraku, the statue quarry, in the background.

Ahu Tongariki, the largest ceremonial site on the island, stretches almost 300 meters in length and has some of the largest standing statues on it.

Ahu Tongariki, the largest ceremonial site on the island, stretches almost 300 meters in length and has some of the largest standing statues on it.

Rapa Nui 039 Rapa Nui 035 Rapa Nui 036The moai represented ancestor figures to the ancient people. They were not molds of the same, but each was unique as the person they represented.

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The cliffs of Poike with the islet Motu Marotiri nearby, where ancient ceremonies took place for children.

Rano Kau, the South Western crater of the island, is filled with rainwater and was used in ancient times by the town to gather drinking water.

Rano Kau, the South Western crater of the island, is filled with rainwater and was used in ancient times by the town to gather drinking water.

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Three islets seen off the South Western point of the island. Competitors of the Bird Man competition would have to climb down the cliff and swim to the farthest island to search for the first egg of the sooty tern.

A cultural presentation of a warrior about to "Haka Pei," an ancient sport performed by warriors.

A cultural presentation of a warrior about to “Haka Pei,” an ancient sport performed by warriors.

Takona performance. The use of body paint was and is still used to tell stories of the past.

Takona performance. The use of body paint was and is still used to tell stories of the past.

 

A young Rapanui figuring out which "helado" flavor he wants. International foods are now somewhat available on the island, which has sadly lead to health issues for many islanders.

A young Rapanui, dressed in traditional clothes, figuring out which “helado” flavor he wants. International foods are now somewhat available on the island, which has sadly lead to health issues for many islanders. Our documentary, Eating Up Easter, will focus on some of that.

 

Express yourself

derive - french

 

I often feel like words cannot truly capture the density, depth, or intricacy of my thoughts and emotions about the greater aspects of life. Words can lock in big complex sensations into terms that often feel too simple. But language and our use of it to communicate is quite incredible in what it allows us to capture and share with others. We have developed quite an array of symbols to describe the world around us and our perceptions of it. That is what makes language so fascinating to anthropologists. Our language is a reflection of the way in which we as a collective culture, sharing a common language, experience or perceive the world.

Aren’t these beautifully illustrated words from cultures around the world wonderful? See more here.

German

Italian

Inuit

Spanish

Hawaiian

FrenchAnd one of my favorites in Rapanui (the Polynesian language spoken on Easter Island) is the closest word (or phrase) they have for love: Mo more manava mo te hanga au kia koe e. Literally: The tightening / wrenching of the stomach that is made by my want for you. The Rapanui believe that a person feels with their stomach, not with their heart. This give that “gut feeling” a new meaning.

Yet, although we share a language with a group of people who often experience the world in similar ways, we each individually have our own understanding of the delicate nuances of a particular word. And therein lies a conundrum: can anyone really know you— really truly understand what you are thinking and feeling? Your own very individual experiences and background color your understanding of the world right down to what a word means or represents to you. Orenda - IroquoianBut still, some words do seem to come close to expressing those most complex of sensations or feelings. And looking at those words across languages gives us an incredible window into not only how different groups of people experience the world, but also the vast variety of emotions and perceptions we, as humans, experience and try to capture in our languages. I stumbled across this tumbler some months ago and love using it to discover some of that complex and colorful vocabulary we have developed around the world.

The feeling  I had before I found Easter Island….Sehnsucht And some more of my favorites….Annus Mirabilis - LatinSmultronstalle - SwedishNefelibata - Spanish Greek

 

 

Ready Steady Roll!

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Back in May I took a log rolling class with two good friends (who have both since moved away…sniff). What is log rolling you ask? Have no fear, we will demonstrate for you in our epic log rolling video below. But before we get to that check out our instructor’s face in the bottom left of the photo above. Best photo capture of our experience (excuse the fact that the camera was wet, it just adds to the effect, right?).

Our log rolling instructor was a maniac on the log – he was even gone one of the weekends to compete in American Ninja Warrior. Hard core….we were in good hands. But as you will soon see, it’s not easy. Even with expert instruction, all we could do was try to stay on the log as long as possible. Which wasn’t very long at all….our best times were a whopping 10 seconds on the log. See our scores below in the lower right….Sarah and I both “rode the bull” (stayed on over 8 seconds) clocking in with record times of 8.25 and 10.63. Now don’t mind the 4 minute times in the upper left. Those were tiny tiny children, which obviously don’t count. Their tiny bodies don’t even make the log move. We watched the class before us, we saw how they roll. It’s like walking on land. Must be boring. 4 minutes, I mean I would have jumped off from boredom by then.

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We weren’t satisfied just being crazy good log rollers ourselves, we had to bring our husbands in to experience this with us….describing it in words to them just wouldn’t suffice. And as Ta’u loves trying any local cultural or traditional activity, this was right up his alley. Log rolling is a true Minnesotan tradition.

Jim Herron log rolling dressed as a woman

Jim Herron’s ” Grandma Log Rolling ” show

It began during the logging days in the late 1800’s when lumberjacks would drive the logs down rivers to transport them to the growing cities of the north. They guided the logs, trying to prevent log jams as they went around curves and across shallow areas. It was critical for them to hone their skills of standing on floating tree trunks. After working hours they would hold competitions at the logging camps. Two or three men would stand on a log and try to knock the others off until only one was left standing. The sport has been kept alive in various circles and competitions are held around the country each year (check out the US logrolling association). It appears to be making a big comeback in Minnesota this year, as we saw classes offered at all the lakes this summer, and saw logs tied to the roofs of cars as they passed us on the freeways.

So who wants to see our mad log rolling skills? I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Another corner of home

Rapa Nui Aerial

Photo by Yann Arthus-Bertrand

This weekend I’m heading off to another corner of home…..Easter Island, or Rapa Nui. One of the smallest, most remote inhabited places on the planet, it is nearly 2000 miles from any other populated land and it has a surface area of only 60 square miles – about the size of Washington D.C. But, unknown to many, it has a thriving population of over 6000 people, not to mention the 80,000 or so tourists that visit each year.

This is the first time in 10 years that I will travel to the island without Ta’u. I will miss his presence very much, but I’m getting excited to take on this new challenge. I’ve definitely let him lead the way with his huge extended family there – he’s related to most of the islanders which can get pretty confusing trying to keep them all straight and remember who’s related to who. Knowing who someone is there means knowing how they are related to you, so when you get introduced it’s not just, “this is so and so” but, “this is so and so, he’s your cousin, he’s the grandson of my father’s brother’s daughter.” You’ve got to learn fast, and as someone who’s terrible with names anyway, this is the ultimate challenge. When in doubt I know to smile and wave at everyone I see just in case they are family (which most likely they are) and try not to let on that I can’t remember who’s cousin’s wife’s brother-in-law they are. So being there on my own, I hope, will force me to learn by doing, shall we say.

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I won’t have too much time to see family, though, because for most of my visit I’ll be leading and guiding a tour on the island. They will meet me in Santiago, Chile, and then we’ll head to the island together where I’ll get to share the statues, or moai, in all their glory, as well as the less glamorous, but just as important everyday features like house foundations and rock walls. This group is all about lecturing and continuing education so I’ll be doing a lot of this fancy posing while I discuss the details of life in the past.

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I’ll also get to enjoy views like this. Oh, I miss this little island so much. I can’t wait to get there.

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We have some exciting posts planned for while I’m away, so keep checking in. One of them may or may not include an epic video about our recent log rolling experience, and we have a whole week of Boundary Water Canoe Area (BWCA)-themed posts including survival skills and gourmet food.

Happy weekend!

Healthy Obsessions: Polynesian Voyaging

I’ve recently had to work on several projects that required I study up on how polynesians navigated the Pacific Ocean thousands of years ago. Being from Easter Island (also part of Polynesia), my ancestors were these same ancient voyagers who trekked across miles of open ocean to settle new islands. The general understanding is that the ancient polynesians sailed using double hulled sailing canoes.  The hulls were made out of wood (usually from giant fallen Koa trees) and the sails were fashioned out of the bark of plants like the paper mulberry bush.

Lele from cliff kapono on Vimeo.

Most recently, there has been a navigational renaissance throughout the nations of the Pacific.  The Polynesian Voyaging Society and their ship the Hokulea were one of the first to start the rescue of ancient knowledge.  The Hokulea has logged numerous sails across throughout the polynesian triangle and now is planning an around-the-world sail in 2014.  In addition, there are at least seven other vessels that have been built and are reviving the ancient practice of wayfinding using currents, winds, waves, and the night sky.  A big backer to this renaissance has been Dieter Paulmann and the Okeanos Foundation as they try to spread a message of caring for the ocean and our natural environment.

Sorry for the lecture, but polynesian navigations is a topic that keeps fascinating me.  I’ve stumbled across a documentary called Our Blue Canoe about these seven canoes and the message they are trying to spread. As of August 2013 it is still in production, but here is a trailer of what they have so far:

If you want to learn more about Okeanos, Hokulea, or Our Blue Canoe, there is a ton of information on their websites.